Txheem Dyeing Thiab Txheej Txheem
Ancient Suav kab lis kev cai - Suav ntaub ntawv luam ntawv luam - ancient txhob lo lo ntxhuav dyeing thiab xov tshuab
Txoj kev luam ntawv yog txoj haujlwm tseem ceeb hauv cov kabmob ntaug. Vim hais tias tsuas yog siv dyeing thiab xov tshuab, peb tuaj yeem ua kom zoo dua peb nyiam xim thiab txhob lo lo ntxhuav thiab xov xwm rau ntawm dawb dawb ntawm yuav, yog li ua cov npuag ntau artistic. Cov txheej txheem no muaj xws li plaub lub tswv yim ntawm kev ua kom tiav, dyeing, luam ntawv thiab xov kab nyoos lo thiab ntaub.
(1) txhim kho
Cov kabmob muaj ob qho tib filaments, lub cev loj yog qhov uas yog sericin, thiab txheej txheej yog them nrog sericin. Feem ntau ntawm cov pigments, roj, waxes thiab inorganic salts muaj nyob hauv sericin. Cov impurities muaj ib tug zoo cawv rau cov nyhuv ntawm luam ntawv thiab dyeing, yog li lawv yuav tsum tau muab tshem tawm ua ntej dyeing. Cov neeg nyob hauv qhov kev siv mus sij hawm ntev, tsim kom muaj cov tshuaj lom neeg los yog cov tshuaj enzymatic yooj yim rau hauv dej, thiab siv cov tshuaj no tsis muaj zog, cov ntaub kab xev lo lo ntxhuav los yog lo lo rau xab npum los yog tshuaj ntxuav hluavtaws sib tov nrog soda tshauv (sodium carbonate) cua sov, cua sov tom qab sericin hydrolysis. Tom qab zoo li no, tshem tawm cov tshuaj sericin thiab khaws cov tshuaj sericin, tshem cov pigment, roj, siv quav ciab thiab lwm yam impurities, thiaj li tau txais cov khoom lo lo ntxhuav nrog xim dawb. Cov nyom nyoos tom qab degumming yog hu ua ripe silk. Lub degree ntawm degumming ntawm raw lo nyom yuav tsum tau txiav txim siab raws li ntau lawm yuav tsum tau.
Txhob lo dyeing thiab xov
(2) qhov dyeing
Tom qab ua kom zoo zoo, lub hnab lo xim ntawm cov xim dawb yuav nkag mus rau theem dyeing. Dyeing yog txheej txheem ntawm kev txiav txim siab dyes react nrog silkworms thiab dawb silks, thiaj li hais tias dawb paug xaws yog dyed nrog ntau yam xim. Raws li nyuv yog protein ntau, nws tsis yog alkali resistant, yog li dyeing yuav tsum tau nqa hauv acidic los yog ze rau nruab nrab zas dye kua. Tam sim no, lub ntsiab dyes siv nyob rau hauv cov plaub ntxhuav fabrics yog acid dyes, reactive dyes, direct dyes thiab VAT dyes. Cov xim ntawm cov khoom dyed nrog acid dyes yog ci, thiab xim yog kho nrog cation fixing tus neeg saib xyuas tom qab dyeing, uas muaj peev xwm txhim kho txoj kev ntxuav kev ceev ntawm cov khoom. Cov kabmob tsis tshua muaj dyeing ntawm lo lo ntxhuav tau zoo ntxuav ceev nrooj. Txoj kev dyeing ntawm cov ntaub nws txawv nrog rau hom ntaub. Piv txwv, crepe thiab xov paj ntaub yog dyed hlua los yog txeej jet dyeing, thaum textile, cov plaub muag thiab satin ntaub, lawv dyed nrog tiaj tiaj dav dai lossis coil dyeing.
(3) luam tawm
Tom qab tag nrho, ib tsos nqaij daim tawv yog monotonous. Dhau ntawm dyeing, tib neeg kuj siv tshuab luam ntawv los ua silk yeeb yuj. Kev luam yog ib txoj kev luam tawm dyes ntawm ib daim ntaub uas ua raws li kev tsim. Hom kev luam ntawv yog kev luam tawm ncaj qha, luam tawm, tiv thaiv kom tsis ncaj.
Direct luam yog hais txog luam ntawv pulp ncaj qha rau cov ntaub lo lo ntxhuav los ntawm cov ntawv luam tawm phaj, yog ib qho ntawm txoj kev luam tawm yooj yim, tuaj yeem sau nrog ntau hom dyes.
Tshaj ntawv luam tawm, tseem hu ua phuam ntoo phuam, nws yog siv cov carved white agent discharge txheej txheem, ua ntej luam ntawv thiab dyeing nrog azo qauv ntawm acid dyes thiab reactive dye dye qhov lo lo ntxhuav, dua li raws li tus qauv xav tau ntawm cov xim kabmob luam tawm ntawm cov khoom xuab zeb uas muaj paug ua dawb paug ua los ntawm kev kos npe (tshem tawm), tom qab lub fwj, luam yeeb tshuaj ntawm cov xim hauv av los xim dawb, hu ua "dawb" pob zeb.
Anti-dyeing luam ntawv yog luam tawm lo lo ntxhuav ntaub nrog "anti-dawb" los yog "color proofing" pulp raws li tus qauv, thiab ces dye nws tom qab ziab. Vim hais tias cov qauv muaj "dawb pov thawj" los sis "xim pov thawj" lub plawv los tiv thaiv, yuav tsis muaj pes tsawg, thiab feem ntau yuav yog xim.
(4) txhawm rau txheeb
Tom qab scouring, dyeing thiab luam ntawv, cov ntaub yuav ua tiav. Cov txheej txheem kev daws teeb meem mas yog qhov teeb meem qub xws li cov dav dav, tsis muaj teeb meem, qhia cov yam ntxwv ntawm cov ntawv lo muag ntawm nws tus kheej thiab nce nws cov kev ua haujlwm, cov khoom siv tsuas yog kev kho txhua yam thiab cov tshuaj tshuaj.
Mechanical finishing nrog rau daim duab tiav, chav ironing xov, thiab daim phiaj sib tw. Tshuaj lom neeg tsuas yog ntxiv tshuaj lom neeg ua hauj lwm, xws li tshuaj muag muag, antistatic tus neeg sawv cev, kev tiv thaiv hluav taws kub, li ntawm cov dej qab zib tshauv thiab trisodium phosphate sand lotion, thiab lwm yam, thiaj li ua tau los tiv thaiv cov pob txha, cov tawv ntoo, muag thiab tuab. Cov kho ntaub yog tsis tsuas yog ntau haum rau hnav, tab sis kuj broadens thaj tsam ntawm tau ntim. Thaum cov ntawv luam tawm tau tsim, cov duab zoo nkauj thiab cov khoom siv tes ua thiab cov khoom siv khoob thiab Oriental costumes tuaj yeem ua tau.